After spending two nights in Zagreb, I headed to Ljubljana on Thursday, where I spent one night, before taking the bus down to Trieste. I stopped in Ljubljana, because it has been two years of waiting while Covid took over our lives, and I wanted to see what had changed since my last visit. In a word: plenty. Lots of closed storefronts; my favorite little café, gone. On the bright side, I took a gamble on another little café, Breg, ordering veal cheeks in a green peppercorn sauce, that was one of the best dishes I can remember having here or anywhere. The waitress was attentive, which is not always a given here in Central/Eastern Europe, and the wine she suggested was perfect.
I'm now in Trieste with New Orleans friend, Patty, and Trieste is a delight. It's my first foray into Italy, but the people are so nice, I thought I was in Croatia. (Croatia is like 45 minutes from here.) Last night, we ambled down a very tight alley in the Old Town and stumbled on yet another cute little café (should I change that to 'cliché?'). They have a large selection of wines and what appears to be one dish: a charcuterie board, with locally sourced cheese & aged meats. Delicious. Very enthusiastic young owners who were playing Trombone Shorty, which is what drew us to the place. "What's that playing? It sounds familiar…" I guess.
Tonight, we're in search of Linguini Carbonara; tomorrow, seafood. Then, Monday morning, we find our way to Lake Bled and our friend, Sabine.
More later.
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